Broken twill refers to a distinctive denim weave that sets itself apart from the more common right-hand or left-hand twills found in typical jeans. This weaving technique was initially developed to counteract the natural tendency of denim to twist after multiple washes. The relevance of this technique becomes evident in high-quality denim, as it prevents the fabric from skewing, ensuring that 14oz denim jeans maintain their shape and fit over time.
Understanding the Broken Twill Weave
How It Differs from Traditional Twill Weaves
Broken twill weave distinguishes itself from traditional twill by alternating the direction of the twill every two inches. This method contrasts sharply with the unidirectional diagonal lines characteristic of standard twill weaves, such as right-hand twill (RHT) and left-hand twill (LHT). By disrupting the continuity of the weave, broken twill effectively minimizes fabric torque, a common issue in traditional twills that often leads to twisted seams after washing. Such an innovative approach not only enhances the garment’s longevity but also its aesthetic symmetry.
The Zigzag Effect
The zigzag effect inherent in broken twill jeans is not just a stylistic choice but a functional innovation designed to combat leg twists, a typical problem with other denim weaves. By alternating the weave direction, broken twill stabilizes the fabric, ensuring that the legs of the jeans remain straight even after multiple wash cycles. This feature is particularly beneficial for raw denim jeans, which are prone to twisting due to untreated fabric's natural shrinking and stretching.

Comparing Broken Twill with Right-Hand and Left-Hand Twill
Right-hand twill typically results in a fabric that feels softer and drapes more easily, while left-hand twill is known for its hardy texture and tendency to twist more dramatically. Broken twill offers the best of both worlds by providing the durability and unique textural properties of left-hand twill without the excessive twisting associated with both traditional weaves. It makes broken twill a superior choice for those seeking premium denim that combines aesthetic appeal with functional benefits.
Why 14oz Denim Is The Perfect Weight
Balancing Durability and Comfort
The choice of 14oz denim represents an optimal compromise between endurance and everyday comfort. This fabric weight is substantial enough to endure significant wear and tear, suggesting a longevity that lighter fabrics can't match. However, it remains supple enough to ensure comfort even when worn for extended periods. Balance is crucial for those who use their denim jeans regularly and need a pair that won't break down after a few months. The resilience of 14oz denim fabric also means it holds its shape better, providing a consistent fit that adapts to the wearer's body without sagging.
How It Molds to the Body Over Time
This heavier denim starts stiffer and gradually softens with wear, conforming to the body's natural lines and curves. This breaking-in process results in jeans that are physically comfortable and aesthetically tailored to the individual's form. A personalized fit is a significant advantage of choosing a mid-weight denim like 14oz, as it provides both the durability needed for longevity and the flexibility to become uniquely yours.
The Role of Fabric Weight in Fade Development
When it comes to developing character and style through fading, the best weight for denim jeans fabric plays a pivotal role. The thickness of the best denim fabric supports more pronounced and distinctive fade patterns, often sought after by denim enthusiasts. Here’s how:
- Thickness and Abrasion: Heavier denim is built to withstand prolonged abrasion, meaning that fading gradually occurs. The thicker fabric resists friction longer, leading to high-contrast, well-defined fade patterns over time. Lighter denim, on the other hand, around 10oz or below, tends to break in faster due to less resistance, forming softer, more even fades. Those who favor dramatic high-contrast fades often opt for heavier denim because it creates sharper whiskers and honeycombs with extended wear. However, the tradeoff is that thicker denim takes longer to break in and can feel stiff before softening.
- Heat Retention: The density of denim fabric also determines its ability to retain heat, which can influence the fading process. Heavier denim retains more body heat, especially in areas of high movement like the thighs and behind the knees, accelerating the wear process in those regions. This added warmth leads to a slight increase in moisture and friction, which can soften the fibers and encourage more natural creasing and fading. Conversely, lighter denim is more breathable, allowing for an even fade across the entire fabric. This factor is particularly relevant for those who wear denim in warmer climates, as heavier jeans may feel less comfortable but develop fades more prominently over time due to increased heat exposure.
- Dye Retention: One of the most noticeable aspects of heavier denim is its ability to hold onto dye for a longer period. The denser weave and higher yarn count in heavy denim slow the fading process, allowing the fabric to develop deep, high-contrast fades over time. When the dye does begin to break down, the fades appear sharper and more defined, making each pair unique to the wearer’s movements and habits. Lighter denim, by contrast, has a looser weave that allows indigo to wear off more quickly, resulting in a softer, more vintage-style fade.
While heavier denim requires patience, the payoff is often striking, with bold, high-contrast fades that reflect the wearer’s journey. Lighter denim, on the other hand, offers quicker results with a softer, more subtle fading process. Choosing the right weight depends on personal preference, climate, and the type of fade one hopes to achieve over time.
Broken Twill vs. Selvedge Denim
Key Differences in Weave and Construction
Selvedge vs. broken twill contains more than just aesthetic differences; it's about the mechanics of fabrication and the final product's durability. Selvedge denim is known for its clean, finished edges that prevent fraying, and it is crafted from a traditional shuttle loom that weaves fabric with a self-edge. On the other hand, broken twill does not prioritize edge finishing but instead focuses on preventing the fabric twist common in traditional twill weaves. This focus results in denim that maintains a stable, consistent shape over time, providing a practical advantage in garment longevity and shape retention.
Which Denim Type Is Right for You?
If you value jeans that adapt uniquely to your lifestyle, showing a natural evolution in their fade and character, broken twill might be the best choice. For enthusiasts seeking durability with a crisp, classic edge and more defined fade lines, selvedge is ideal. Both types of denim offer substantial benefits, making them staples in the wardrobes of twill-weave denim lovers who appreciate quality and style. The decision involves considering which characteristics most closely align with your denim expectations and lifestyle demands.

How to Break in Denim
The Raw Denim Break-In Process Explained
Initially, the denim is stiff and unyielding, but with continuous wear, it softens and molds to your body’s movements. The break-in period is crucial because it sets the foundation for how the jeans will conform to your shape, creating a personalized fit that is virtually impossible to replicate in pre-washed denim. During this time, it's essential to wear the jeans as often as possible and refrain from washing them. This allows the 14oz selvedge denim to crease naturally at stress points, such as behind the knees and hips, which later develop into the jeans' unique fade patterns.
Washing and Maintenance for Long-Lasting Jeans
Properly washing and maintaining 14oz broken twill denim can significantly extend the life of your jeans while enhancing their aesthetic qualities. Denim weave strength and the unique properties of broken twill require specific care strategies to maintain the fabric’s integrity. When it is time to wash, consider these guidelines to preserve the quality and longevity of your denim:
- Hand Wash or Gentle Cycle: One of the most effective ways to prolong the life of your jeans is to hand wash them in cold water with a mild detergent. This method minimizes stress on the fabric and prevents excessive indigo loss, which is crucial for developing natural, well-defined fades over time. If machine washing is necessary, use a gentle cycle with cold water to avoid fiber weakening and unexpected shrinkage. Aggressive washing can break down the twill structure and cause uneven fading. Also, washing too frequently can strip the fabric of its natural oils, making it feel stiffer and reducing its longevity.
- Turn Jeans Inside Out: Turning jeans inside out before washing is a simple yet effective practice that helps protect the outer fabric. Denim undergoes constant friction from movement, and the washing process can amplify this wear, leading to premature fading in unintended areas. The inside absorbs most of the washing agitation by flipping the jeans, keeping the outer indigo surface more intact. This technique also prevents excessive dye loss, ensuring the natural fading process occurs through wear rather than artificial washing effects. Inside-out washing also reduces lint buildup and keeps the weave structure of broken twill denim smooth and even. Whether washing by hand or machine, always turning jeans inside out is an easy step toward maintaining their aesthetic appeal and durability.
- Air Dry: Heat from tumble dryers can cause unnecessary stress, leading to shrinkage, weakened fibers, and potential warping of the fabric. Instead, after washing, jeans should be laid flat or hung by the waistband in a well-ventilated space. Hanging them outdoors can also help eliminate any residual odors naturally. Avoiding high heat helps retain the natural texture of broken twill denim, which is known for its softer feel over time. Though air drying may take longer than machine drying, it ensures the jeans maintain their original structure and fit. For best results, reshape the jeans while damp to avoid stiff creases and unwanted distortions.
- Spot Cleaning: Frequent washing isn’t always necessary, and spot cleaning can be an excellent alternative for handling stains or spills. A damp cloth or an old toothbrush with a mild soap solution can lift stains without requiring a full wash, preserving the fabric’s natural oils and deep indigo color. Spot cleaning is beneficial for treating food stains, dirt, or grease that might otherwise cause discoloration if left unattended. Since broken twill denim is tightly woven, minor stains don’t usually penetrate deeply, making them easier to clean with targeted care. Additionally, spot cleaning helps maintain the stiffness and shape of raw denim, ensuring it continues to mold to the wearer’s body rather than softening prematurely. Regularly addressing small stains keeps jeans fresh while extending the time between washes.
Using gentle washing methods, turning jeans inside out, avoiding high heat, and relying on spot cleaning when possible, denim lovers can preserve the fabric’s strength and its natural fading process. Proper maintenance ensures that each pair of jeans lasts for years while developing a unique character that reflects the wearer’s lifestyle.
Where to Find the Best 14oz Broken Twill Jeans
Top Broken Twill Jeans Brands
Manufacturers like Wiesmade are known for their commitment to quality and innovation in denim weaving. Many such brands have cultivated a reputation for crafting jeans that embody superior durability and offer unique aesthetic characteristics thanks to the broken twill weave. These jeans are often featured in boutique denim shops and online stores catering to connoisseurs looking beyond mainstream offerings.
How to Choose High-Quality Denim Fabric
It requires understanding how different weaves affect the fabric’s feel and performance over time. When evaluating 14oz broken twill denim, consider factors such as the uniformity of the weave, the naturalness of the dye, and the texture of the fabric. High-quality denim will feel sturdy yet not overly stiff and should show a clear pattern that indicates meticulous manufacturing processes. It's important to touch and feel the fabric, as the tactile experience can provide insights into the density and quality of the weave.
Online and In-Store Options
For those ready to purchase 14oz denim jeans, there are plentiful products through dedicated online platforms, often providing detailed descriptions and sizing advice to help consumers make informed decisions. For a more hands-on shopping experience, visiting specialty denim stores can be beneficial. These stores usually have knowledgeable staff who can provide insights into the various denim types, including broken twill, and help customers find the perfect fit and style for their needs.

As denim continues to be a staple in wardrobes around the world, understanding the nuances of different denim fabrics and weaves becomes essential. The benefits of broken twill stand out for its technical and aesthetic qualities, making it a premium choice in a saturated market. By choosing this type of denim, you invest in quality and craftsmanship that transcends seasonal fashion trends, offering a timeless piece that enhances with age.